CIHM 
Microfiche 
Series 
(IMonographs) 


ICIMH 

Collection  de 
microfiches 
(monographies) 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notes  tachniquas  et  bib'iographiquas 


The  Instituta  haa  attempted  to  obtain  the  bast 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


L'Institut  a  microfilma  le  meilleur  enemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  eta  possible  de  se  procurer    Les  details 
de  cet  axemplaire  qui  sont  peut-^tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  fllmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


0 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  coulaur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  da  couleur 

0    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagees 


U 

D 
D 

n 
a 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gAographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliura  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  la  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  dune  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais.  lorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  iti  filmAes. 


□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurees  et/ou  pellir  ■'-■:. 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or       j  -  , 
Pages  decolorees,  tachetees  c  -  »  ouees 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  detachees 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualits  InAgaie  de  {'Impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc  .  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure 
etc  .  cnt  ^te  fiirr.^es  i  nouveau  de  facon  a 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible 


D 
D 
0 
D 

n 


n 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplementaires 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu^  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


y 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


J 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Thomas  Fithtr  Rare  Bode  Library, 
Univartity  of  Toronto  Library 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grice  k  la 
ginirositA  de: 

Thomas  Fishar  Rara  Book  Library, 
University  of  Toronto  Library 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  tti  reprodultes  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the. 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  c«.s.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iilustiation  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
vhichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  y  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmds  i  des  taux  de  rMuction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film*  A  partir 
de  I'angle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


m 


2.8 


146 

36 

40 


m 


u 


1.4 


2.2 
2.0 

1.8 

1.6 


MICROCOPY  RESOLUTION  TEST  CHART 

NATIONAL  BUREAU  OF  STANDARDS 

STANDARD  REFERENCE  MATERIAL  1010a 

(ANSI  and  ISO  TEST  CHART  No.  2) 


[il[^[!30[2][3[3Eii[i]g] 


BY       H.    BEDFORD- JONES 


* 


.. 


<11m     Man 


{ 


«k 


\^ 


THE       STORY 
OF 


P 


ISIOK 


0 


AN    FtlUAhJ 


IJQlAFISTRANO 


B  Y 

H.   BEDFORD-JONES 


Santa     Barbara 


'TKirti^    copies    Kand-printed    lt>j>    tne 
Auft\or    &    distributed    privatel^^ 


A  man  x}*t  fanwui  according  a>  ha 
kad  liftad  up  axat  upon  iha  ihick 
treM . 

But  noV  <hr?  braak  doWn  <Ka  carvad 
«7ork    (hereof    ^idt    axes    and    hammers . 


II 


I  I  r; 


FOREWORD 

'i\ie  <»>riter  Kas  endeavored  herein  to  ex- 
press more  than  bare  fact*  •.  to  expresf 
something  of  the  inner  Vision  of  this 
place  -•  something  of  the  spirituality  yet 
lingering  upon  the  rain-streaked  walls  and 
the  crumbling  arches. 
^This  'Jolume  is  but  ore  man's  -Viewpoint . 
Its  on\^  ambition  is  an  ir*erpretation  of 
the  strange  inJividualit^  ich  clings  to 
these    ruins    toda]? . 

n\\e  "Man"  of  tl-o  book  has  no  know- 
ledge of  ''i:  writin,  ,  nor  would  he  per- 
haps appro .'rf  the  introduction  of  personal 
elements  --  but  what  matter?  His  labor 
has  put  beauty'  and  utili^?  in  the  stead  of 
ruin  and  neglect;  the  world  owes  him  a 
meed  of  appreciation .  He  desires  it  not , 
yet  it  will  come  to  him  as  inevitably?  as 
will  a  Higher  appreciation . 
To  him  I  owe  thinks  for  assistance  and 
information ,  nor  could  I  find  fitter  dedi- 
cation than  to  ascribe  and  inscribe  this 
Volume    to 

St .      John      O'Sullivan 
Genio    Loci 


I: 


Q 


O     N     T     E     N     T     S 


I      THE    ADOBE 


II     THE    K 


STOWE 


III  THE    HIGH    BELLS 

IV  THE    COYOTE 


V     THE    MAN 


©IhE         [glDOBE 


8  I' 


From     the     ear<h     the;?      made     mc , 

A      gre^      adobe      slab ; 
Bj)      m^      fellows     laid      me , 

Sun-baked .     ugl:?  ,     drab  . 
From     the     dust     the:?      called     me 

Who     had     been      a      clod. 
Plastered      me      and      ^walled      me      - 

Set      me      to      serJe     God! 


"4tL-L.I' 


ffWHP^WMff 


m 


THE        ADOBE 


^ 


[qHUT  of  tKe  sou4i  came  Junipero 
^^  Serra  tKe  Franciscan,  conquering 
the  land  v?i4i  fai^i,  a  Cross,  and  an 
adobe    brick . 

California's  Via  Crucis  was  mile- 
stoned  wi{h  adobes,  ^liis  was  a  land 
oil  but  treeless;  tKe  most  natural  and 
easily)  made  material  was  tKe  sun-baked 
cla3)  brick.  Indeed,  it  was  tKe  onlj) 
constructive  material  at  tKe  disposal  of 
tKe    first    padres . 

Mision  San  Juan  Capistrano  was 
founded  October  30,  1775.  EigKt  days 
later  came  news  of  tKe  native  uprising 
at  San  Diego.  In  «ill  Kaste  Fra5>  La- 
suen  buried  tKe  two  mission  bells  and 
fied. 


II 


12 

In  the  following  year  came  Padre 
Serra  the  Fundator  in  person,  and  re- 
estaWisKed  tKe  work.  He  chose  a  ne^J 
and  better  site,  between  the  Trabuco 
and  San  Juan  creeks,  within  sight  of 
the  sea ;  and  consecrated  this  founda- 
tion November  i ,  1776 .  'Then  he 
departed  and  the  work  was  taken  up 
b^    his    helpers     —     Padres    Mugartegui 


am 


d  A 


murno . 


* 


HO  monaster))  was  this  place,  no 
secludt^  spot  for  meditation  and 
repose;  but  a  school  of  industrial  and 
manual  training  where  the  Indians  were 
taught  to  knov?  God,  and  to  serve 
Him  in  love.  Here  was  preached  the 
mysterp  of  service  --  to  borrow  honest 
Will  Comfort's  phrase;  the  mysten?  of 
creative  labor,  of  honest?  in  one's  han- 
diwork. TKe  first  result  of  this  was 
the    adobe . 

Adobe  bricks  are  excellent  things 
in  themselves,  but  the^)  must  be  pro- 
tected from  the  rains.  In  a  countr? 
where  ever?  scrap  of  material  must  be 
formed  from  the  ra^  ear^h-givings ,  such 
protection    means     labor.      The     padres 


IS 

labored;  tlieir  mission  was  built  from 
adobe  and  tiles,  to>MKide  and  mortar, 
reeds    and    boulders . 

In  tKe  Canada  del  Omo ,  "little 
canon  of  tke  oven,"  just  nor4i  of  the 
mission  ruins,  tKe  remains  of  the  kilns 
maj)  still  be  seen.  Here  were  made 
tiles  of  man>>  sKapes,  but  all  of  the 
same    tender    red , 

Some  were  square ,  and  these  were 
used  to  floor  the  corridors;  some  were 
oblong ,  and  these  went  to  build  the 
columns  and  arches ,  and  to  roof  them ; 
some  were  regular  roofing  tiles ,  curved 
and  fitted  to  run  water.  All  ma;p  be 
seen    in    service    to    this    dap . 

E  F  O  R  E  the  actual  building ,  all 
things  had  to  be  shown  to  the 
builders .  ^These  neophytes ,  as  the  In- 
dian converts  were  termed ,  learned  to 
use  carts  and  oxen .  to  make  tiles ,  to 
transform  into  cement  and  mortar  the 
limestone,  so  laboriously)  fetched  twelve 
miles    over    the    hills . 

Meantime ,  food  had  to  be  won 
from  the  carfh  and  the  necessities  of 
^ifc    provided .     Open    ditches    and    tiled 


! 


14 
conduits  were  run  from  the  streams, 
forming  an  extensive  irrigation  system. 
Gardens,  orcKards,  and  vineyards  were 
laid  out  and  the  neopKytes  were  sKown 
hovJ  to  care  for  tKem.  EacK  da:?  the 
advantages  of  tKis  site  cKosen  h^  ^r«9 
Serra   became   more   evident. 

Gradually!  tKe  adobe  walls  went 
up;  and,  rising,  tKej?  enclosed  work- 
sKops.  NeopKyte  carpenters  Kewed  out 
ceiling-rafte..  of  sycamore  beams ,  brought 
from  tKe  Kills  twen^?  miles  awa^ ,  and 
carved  tKe  quaintlj^  mortised  door  and 
windoBJ  frames,  ^e  smitK^^  produced 
nails,    locks,    Kinges    and    tools. 

Less  skilled  workers  brougKt  tules , 
reeds  from  tKe  creek-beds,  and  cut  up 
rawKide.  Tules  were  laid  upon  tKe 
rafters,  bound  down  and  made  fast 
wi{K  rawKide,  and  plastered  over.  In 
tKis    fasKion    were    made    ceilings. 

Da3>  bj)  da9  tKe  dried  adobes  took 
KigKer  form,  frmer  sKape;  tKe  walls 
were  from  two  to  seven  feet  tKick . 
TKe  arcKes  rose  around  a  patio  of  an 
acre  in  area,  eacK  side  b-ing  about 
two  Kundred  feet  in  leng4i,  but  no 
two    sides   being   exactly'    parallel. 

Separated     from     tKe   arcKes   Irp    a 


»5 

roofc<l ,  op«n  corridor  ware  tK«  Duila- 
ingf,  running  complttvljl  around  tn* 
patio.  Not  all  wera  arccted  at  onca, 
but  tKare  was  no  kasta.  All  atcrnit^ 
la^l    akead    for   tKis   work. 

Want  a  stone  laid,  wara  a  bolt 
sat,  wara  a  nail  drivan  —  it  was  done 
for  aver.  Hera  was  no  oareless  con- 
struction, no  skodd:i)  work;  tkesa  roan 
labored    not  for   men ,  but    served  God . 

Until  tkc  adobes  returned  to  dust 
again ,    tkis    place    wouU    endure . 


aWENTY  years  passed.  Hugeljl 
kad  tke  mission  prospered .  Neo- 
pkytes,  wko  were  noxO  known  as  San 
Juanenos,  dwelt  bj)  tke  kundred  in 
tkeir  own  adobe  bouses,  just  across  tke 
plaza . 

Besides  tke  kigk  large  ckurck,  widi 
its  ckoir-loft  and  softij^  tinted  walls , 
tkere  were  skops  in  wKick  were  made 
soap,  blankets,  candles,  sombreros  and 
leatker   goods . 

In  tke  soutkwest  corner  was  a  flat 
roof  for  drying  fruits.  Hhe  nortkeast 
and  nor^i  buildings  were  store-kouses 
for   grains,    kides,   oil    and   talW.    At 


i6 

the  west  were  the  ^ats  and  smi^^) , 
tKe    oil    and    wine    presses . 

From  tKe  west  front  were  brou^Kt 
out  more  arches;  an  extension  of  the 
buildings  struck  for^  into  the  plaza  . 
Here  la)>  the  store- houses ,  school,  and 
at  the  end ,  tho  quarters  and  arched 
bell    of   the    laz^    garrison . 

Vmj>-  -  o«_  irds  and  gardens 
flourished  '  1^  •  ^Thousands  of  cattle 
roamed  th'.  ills,  and  the  San  Juan 
horses  were  famcu?  in  the  land .'  HThe 
mission  had  outlying  rancherias ,  settle- 
ments of  San  Ju.inefios  who  sa^g?  to  the 
crops  and  cattle  •-  and  who  doubled 
the    talents    in    their    keeping  . 

No  more  cla>>  Lricks  \aS  baking 
in    the    sun . 

||r\|  U  R I N  G  those  twentp  years  of 
BSm  service  and  grow^ ,  a  -Oision  nan 
been    in    the    forming . 

AH  that  could  be  done  wifli  adcbe, 
had  been  done.  Massive  wells,  archef. 
all  manner  of  structures  —  these  were 
finished .  But  already  the  padres  had 
begun  to  look  ahead .  Not  theirs  was 
the    abili^    to  rest    content    wi{h    having 

■  Appendix     A 


»7 
clone    enough .     Men    never    do   enough 
for    God . 

Tweii^  miles  awajl  in  the  moun- 
tains were  sycamores .  Near  the  Mision 
Vieja,  Fra]?  Lasuen's  old  foundation  sjx 
mil?8  up  »he  canon ,  was  a  fne  store 
of  sandstone.  Twelve  miles  distant  was 
limestone.  At  the  ocean  shore  were 
boulders    and    sand . 

Wi4\  the  close  of  the  year  1796, 
the  padres  sn^v?  their  vision  clearly)  . 
^Thej'  began  to  make  diamond  shaped 
tiles ,    and    sent    for    a    stone-mason . 


* 


ii 


Out    of    fixe    quarr^   cut    and    laid , 
Brovln    Kands    brought    me ,    unafraid ; 

Carved    me    'vJiiK    sj^mboU    that    Had  no  name , 
Set    me    to    Hold    a    KigK    arcK-frame . 
Vanished    are    4ie^    x^iAi    all    their    race 
Yet    here   d'Well    I    in    m;p   given    place ; 
Washed   of    Aie    rain,    burnt    of    the    sun, 
Waiting     vJith    God    till     the    years    be    done . 


;^^ 


THE      KEYSTONE 


* 


fol 


!  O  D  has  given  us  weal^i  •  and 
workmen  and  eager  Hearts.  Ncb? 
let  us  put  our  talents  to  account  in 
His   service ! " 

In  this  spirit  the  two  mission  fa- 
thers obtained  their  stone-mason  and  set 
to  work  on  a  nine-years*  contract  wi4i 
God . 

On  Februarj?  2 ,  1797 ,  the  task 
was  begun.  Hlxis  was  the  Vision 
a  great  church  all  of  stone,  the  grand- 
est house  of  worship  in  the  Califomias . 
Some  of  the  Baja  California  churches 
were  marvelous  things,  carven  and 
dighted  wi4\  precious  gifts;  but  thej? 
were  small.  OThis  was  to  be  large, 
beautiful,    splendid    in  its    solemnity  and 

91 


22 


grandeur . 

^Thep  laid  it  out  in  tKe  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  175  hS  80  feet,  ^e  walls 
v?ere  to  be  tv?o  yards  thick,  all  of  stone 
and  cement;  tKe  roof  was  to  be  formed 
hS  se-Oen  bo-Oedas,  or  domes;  the  entire 
building  was  to  be  one  solid  mass  of  pure 
masonr? . 

So  the  work  began. 

E  E  K  after  week ,  mon^i  after  monfli , 


0) 


gad  year  after  :?ear ,  the  purpled  hills 
looked  down  upon  moving  fles  of  men, 
women  and  children . 

Carretas ,  or  ox-carts  of  two  wheels , 
formed  a  constant  line  between  the  nei)? 
mission  and  the  Mision  Vieja ,  where  \aS 
the  sandstone  quarries;  but  not  carretas 
alone.  Hhe  San  Juanenos  carried  stones 
on  their  heads;  e^en  the  children  came 
bearing  stones  —  twelve  miles  back  and 
for^ ,  daj^  after  dap  and  year  after  year . 
Although  the  neophytes  were  numbered 
b>>  the  hundreds ,  the  walls  were  six  feet 
thick . 

In  the  workshops  was  redoubled  toil 
and  labor.  TKe  weavers,  oil  and  wine 
makers ,  cordwainers  ,  clothiers  and  candle- 


23 

fashioners  must  continue  work  as  usual . 
All  regular  business  must  go  on,  for  the 
mission  was  self-supporting. 

Out  in  the  sun  stood  the  stone-mason 
wi4i  Kis  neophyte  pupils,  teaching  these 
apprentices  the  myster?  of  the  keystone, 
and  the  carding  thereof.  Hl^e  keystones 
of  the  tiled  arches  had  been  tiles.  No^ 
this  arch-ke3?  took  on  ner"  meaning  and 
importance  . 

From  the  kilns  came  the  tiies ,  dia- 
mond shaped ,  for  the  flooring  of  the  ne^ 
church  alone.  Mon4»  h-p  mon^h  uprose 
the  walls ,  as  endless  processions  wended 
in ,  some  from  the  quarries ,  some  from 
the  ocean ,  othersome  from  the  mountains 
or  limestone  cliffs.  Concrete  was  mixed 
and  laid.  Slowly?  the  massive  walls  drev? 
nearer  to  heaven . 

NID     the  spirit  of  it  all  la>>  in  the 
keystones  and    lintels,    the    cornices 


H 


and  capitals .  Wi^  time ,  the  apprentices 
became  master  masons ;  beneath  their  hands 
the  rough  ashlars  were  perfected,  and  in 
turn  these  perfect  ashlars  grevO  to  liOing 
jewels  of  their  craft. 

For  thej)  car?ed  these ,  not  wifh  em- 


24 

blems  of  the  fai4\ ,  but  \vi4i  strange  ^oxO- 
ing  symbols  deeply  cKiseled  and  carefully 
balanced .  In  those  symbols  was  something 
of  the  pagan ,  something  which  the  good 
padres  assuredly)  did  not  inspire .  Perhaps 
the  inspiration  ceme  from  the  qui-Oering, 
sunlight,  the  rounded  hills,  the  far  blue 
line  o      he  ocean  , 

rrhe  door  lintels,  earned  in  conser- 
"Oati-Oe  cruciform  designs,  were  strikingly) 
different  and  in  their  waj)  no  less  beauti- 

ful. 

But  in  the  keystones  were  sermons . 

aHREE  years  passed,  and  the  cen- 
tur?  ended  wi4\  the  work  onl]?  one 
third  completed.  Still  the  hundreds  of 
laborers  went  about  their  tasks ,  while  the 
padres  planned  and  directed ,  yet  without 
neglecting  their  spiritual  trestle-boards . 

Gone  was  the  stonemason,  lea^>ing 
a  greater  genius  than  his  own  wi^  the 
pupils  of  his  teaching .  The  bluish  gre:? 
sandstone  still  came  from  the  quarr? ,  the 
careers  still  wrought  wi^  the  slo^  patience 
of  their  race .  Neither  gaud>)  nor  baroque 
was  their  work;  thej)  had  learned  temp- 
erance,   prudence,    fortitude  and  justice. 


U 


25 

tK«se    entering    largel]^    into  their    lalx>r . 

AnotKer  three  years  crept  on.  Frajl 
Vicente  Fuster  went  the  wa]?  of  all  flesh 
and  the  vacancy?  was  filled  bi?  one  Jose 
Faura .  What  mattered  names?  Qliese 
men  lived  for  the  salvation  of  souls , 
and    to    the    glor?    of   God . 

Somewhere  within  the  walls  rests 
Brother  Vicente ,  his  grave  unknown  , 
unmarked ;  yet  his  menorj?  is  more  en- 
during   then    hrorze  . 


& 


LOWLY  the  great  edifice  drexO 
upward  .  Olie  loft?  campanile  began 
to  rise  —  up  and  up ,  ever  climbing 
skyward ,  until  it  could  be  discerned  for 
ten  miles ;  the  sound  of  its  high  bellf- 
carried    even    farther . 

Other  three  years  passed ,  but  nov? 
more  swiftl]?  .  HT^e  floor  was  laid ,  the 
carven  doors  and  windows  were  placed  , 
the  lai.t  capital  and  column  were  set  in 
their  concrete  beds ,  the  plaster  was 
drawn  over  the  rough  walls,  and  the 
stone-chips  were  cleared  from  the  patio  ■ 
Not  yet  was  the  task  completed , 
however.  Remained  some  delicate  gild- 
ing   and    tinting    wi^    soft     ochres     and 


36 

tKe  tender  sKeen  of  copper-ground  sKip's 
paint,  ^e  dull  colorings  blended  most 
exquisitely;  wifK  the  deep  red  of  the 
tiles,  tKe  creamy)  white  of  the  plaster, 
until  the  high-towering  transept  and 
sanctuary)  v^ere  gorgeous  in  soft  harmony . 
It  was    finished  . 

aO  W    came    a    splendid     and    not 
able    companj>     wending    unto    t'.ie 
Mision    San   Juen    Capistrano. 

Came  Don  Jose  Juaquin  de  Arrell- 
aga,  bringing  his  ofiicers  and  soldiers 
from  all  the  presidios;  he  was  gover- 
nor of  the  province  and  a  very  wordiy 
gentleman.  Came  Frny  Esteoan  Tapis, 
president  of  the  missions.  Came  many 
brethren  of  the  Order  from  their  scatt- 
ered posts:  San  Gabriel  Archangel,  San 
Luis  Re^  de  Francia,  Santa  Barbara, 
and  others.  Came  neophytes  from  the 
neirihbor  missions,  wi{h  Spaniards  and 
half  breeds,    in    great    numbers. 

To  receive  them  were  the  builders, 
the  San  Juanenos;  and  Padres  Faura 
and  Santiago,  whose  labors  had  brought 
to    completion    tnis    work. 

^Tlius    at  last  was    the    great  edifice 


': ! 


97 

consecrated;    •nd,  save  to    the  Supreme 
Architect,  tKere   was    no    cKurcK    debt. 
TKe  date  was    September  7,  1806; 
of   tKe    work    tke   ninib    year. 


* 


nanamm 


HE    [nllGH    [Q]ELLS 


i 

II   . 

1  ^ 


Unto    tk«    flk:; 
Tower    w«    afar , 
Calling    on    high , 
Calling    man    nigh  — 

Nigh    unto    prayar . 
O^ar    tha    worn 
Daaart-Iand's    glara, 
To    sundrift    and    star 
Our    call    is    upborna, 

"Come    3>e    to    prayar!" 
E'Oer    we    cr^ , 
NIrOer    we    cease , 

"Come    5>e    to    prayer, 
Here    is    God's    peace!" 


■.'7Erjn?'z.^asiS:mr^'-  ''.?s.Tnau:.-n»cT  j>ir'-w*;  ir-"i-'i>*  -p^nsrr 


THE     HIGH     BELLS 


* 


HI  TALLY  important  to  the  work 
of  the  mission ,  and  symbolic  to  In- 
dian Hearts  of  all  for  which  the  mission 
stood,  were  its  bells. 

n\\e  dail;?  regime ,  in  fact  the  entire 
mission  life,  was  under  the  regulation  of 
the  bells .  Meals ,  worship ,  laboi  —  for 
each  occupation  of  brethren  and  neophy- 
tes the  bells  were  struck .  Was  ru>t  each 
act  a  service  of  God  ? 

Todaj> ,  those  bells ,  four  in  number , 
hang  in  a  lovt  ^all;  the  largest  is  dated 
1796 ,  and  its  inscription  is  in  honor  of 
Padres  Fuster  and  Santiago.  Next  in 
size  is  that  holding  a  bold  proclamation: 
"  Ruelas  made  me ,  and  m:i^  name  is  San 
Juan ,    1796 ." 

51 


;il 


V 


H 


WKo  was  this  Ruelas?  Wc  do  not 
kno^ .  ^Tne  one  man  wKo  left  His  name 
graven  upon  this  structure,  He  alone  Has 
been  totall>l  forgotten. 

niwse  two  bells  ma^^  Kave  been  re- 
cast from  those  buried  in  1775  \r^  Padre 
Lasuen;  but  accordirtg  to  local  traditions 
the  buried  bells  were  never  found. 

Dated  "San  Antonio,  1804"  and 
"San  Rafael ,  1804"  ,  the  two  smaller  bells 
tKat  bang  Here  were  evidently'  sent  from 
other  missions  to  enrich  the  campanile  of 
the  great  net?  church. 

SA  R  S  H  and  strident ,  the  bells  rang 
afar,  clanging  bir^  and  marriage, 
sorro'v?  and  toil ,  worship  and  dea4i .  So 
high  stood  the  campanile  that  it  could  be 
seen  from  Los  Alisos ,  ten  miles  distant . 
And  for  six  years  the  high  bells  swung 
there,  until  the  Master's  hand  touched 
upon  them . 

The  builders  of  the  church  depart- 
ed, and  in  their  places  walked  Padres 
Francisco  Sufier  and  Josef  Barona  —  men 
sent  hither  to  meet  heart-rending  ferial 
days ,  and  one  of  them  destined  to  suffer 
at  the  hands  of  evil  men . 


li>  ! 


•  1 


S9 

December  8,  i8ia,  came  and  w«nt 
again .  For  ut  wKo  look  back  upon  a 
vanitkcd  era ,  it  is  •  da]^  of  questioning. 

It  was  the  feast  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception . 


SH  E     first    mass     was     for     a<jults ; 
thus  ,     no    children    were    in    the 
cKurcK.     WK];^?     Was  this  \>^  cKance? 

TKe  service  began.  TKe  tongues 
of  tKe  bells  were  replaced  b^)  chanting; 
the  Indian  flutists ,  drummers  and  vio- 
linists lifted  the  voices  into  resounding 
cadences ;  Vancouver's  barrel-organ  piped 
throatil>l  .' 

Candles  blazed ;  at  the  altar  was 
the  padre,  wearing  the  white-and-gold 
chasuble  which  had  come  from  Mexico 
Cit? .  ^  rought  bjJ  pious  hands ,  sent 
to  some  older  mission ,  it  had  been 
outworn  and  replaced  and  sent  on ,  at 
last  reaching  San  Juan ,  still  stiff  and 
gorgeous .     And    it    is    there    no^ . 

ni\e  offertor^  was  finished .  In 
the  campanile  two  boys  were  ringing 
the  bells  for  second  mass.  Hl^e  bronze 
tongues  wens  clanging,  clanging    -•-  why 

>    Appendix     B 


ill 


111 


34 

should  it  have  befallen  at  that   instant? 
For  of  a  sudden  the  vaulted  domes 
were    rent    asunder . 


^  I  T  H  the  wave-kke  motion  of  the 
Sfia  "w^alls ,  the  doors  jammed ;  above  , 
the  roof  cracked  open  to  the  blue  sk^. 
Although  the  celebrant  motioned  the 
people  toward  the  sacris^  door,  not  all 
could    obe>> . 

From  above  came  a  rush  of  rubble 
as  the  walls  were  ripped  asunder  and 
the  domes  fell.  Dust-darkness,  shrieks 
....  chaos .  And  then  one  tremendous 
crash  that  drowned  all  else ;  the  proud 
campanile    had    fallen ! 

Instead  of  burying  all  beneafh  its 
ruins ,  it  fell  awa;?  from  the  church  , 
out   into    the    plaza .     Wh>>  ? 

Ql  F  T  E  R  two  days  of  searching  and 

99  labor ,  fort)?    bodies    were  recovered; 

others  were  not  recovered .     Hlie  padres 

buried  the    dead ,  whose    names    maj>  to 

this   da3>    be    read    in    the    records. 

Nine  years  in  building,  the  church 


PI 


3S 

haa  served  God  six  yeatrs  when  it  was 
shattered .  ^^e  senotuarj^  and  transept 
•lone  were  unruiried ,  un termed ,  left 
intact .      Wk]?  ? 

OtKer  structures  suffered  little;  the 
padres  took  up  the  dail]^  round  ane\9 , 
not  trying  to  rebuild.  In  after  times 
such  efforts  were  made,  but  came  to 
naught.  Again  the  mission  prospered, 
dealt  largely  in  hides  and  grain  and 
cattle ;  per!\aps  the  brethren  cherished 
ambitions,  yet  in  the  days  of  prosper- 
ity that  followed  the  earthquake,  the 
church    was    not    rebuilt .     Wh]?  ? 

^^ese   quehcf   we   cannot   answer. 


^ 


iij 


I 

si- 


* 


V* 


s% 


I 


C3 


HE    go 


YOTE 


v'' 


Ll 


111 


f  * 


It: 


AH    the    nigKt    is    deep    and    still ; 

Coj>ote ,  do  -pou  hear  tKe    fKunder  grovJling  ? 
Stars    fling    silver    over    the    hill 

Where  the  gaunt  grej^    beast    is    prcmJling, 
Up  at  the  stor-jlecked    night-sk>)    hoWling, 
While    men    ^atch    not    but     sleep    their    fill    — . 
O^e  ,    o^e  ! 

When    the    da'Wn    comes    gre}? 
Coj^ote,  do  3>ou  hear    the  ^.under    groWling? 


Hi 


1 


THE      COYOTE 


^1  F  T  E  R    tkese  things  fell  evil  days 
^B  upon  the  place ,  ind  yet  more  evil 


men 


Always  Had  Mexico  eyed  greedil>l 
tne  rich  Alta  California  missions,  post- 
ing soldiers  at  eaoK  one  and  claiming 
ivil  autkori^i^.  H^xe  cKolo  soldiers  did 
as  tKe^  pleased ,  defymg  tKc  padres , 
and  at  San  Juan  t\\e-^  most  grievousl:p 
maltreated    Padre    Barona . 

Also ,  tkese  ckolos  bf  Kt  vioes 
and  drunkeness  among  tke  Indians ;  no 
good  tking  came  out  of  Mexico .  ^The 
neopkytes  were  tkrown  into  tke  Hands 
of  tke  flesk  and  tke  devil .  Simple 
souls  were  tke^ .  not  kard  x  -  'ead  astra^j'; 
tke   olden    days    were    gone,    and    into 


39 


U\ 


40 

tKeir    world    Kad    come    greed . 

J^j  N  1833  the  missions  we*-"  finally) 
SOB  seized  ,  and  San  Juan  Capistrano 
was    the    first    to    suffer. 

The  San  Juanenos  sav?  the  rule 
pass  into  ne\i)  hands ;  the]?  sa'vJ  the 
lands  sold  off;  thej)  sb'v?  men  casting 
lots  for  the  sacred  "^Jestments ;  thej'  s&yS 
the  mission  buildings  desecrated ,  and 
themselves    cast    adrift . 

Later  came  smallpox  and  dwelt  wi(h 
them ,  so  that  the  San  Juanenos  per- 
ished   as    a    people . 

No^  the  coyote  comes  into  the 
storp .  Among  the  Indians  was  a  say- 
ing, part  of  a  folk-tale  net  yet  lost: 
'  Oye  los  truenos ,  coyote  ?"  Dost  hear 
the  thunder,  coyote?  HTiere  is  pi{h  in 
the    words , 

After  man]?  years  were  the  mifsion 
buildings,  their  contents  partiall>)  intact, 
restored  to  their  church,  thrrugh  the 
work  of  Dona  Ysadora  Pico  de  Forster . 
It  was  too  late  to  save  the  neophytes 
b  it  was  not  too  late  to  save  the 
buildings;  however,  the  place  was  for- 
gotten of  the  world.     Yet,  what  matter 


41 

whetKer    the    world    rem«mber»? 

Years  fled,  t^pJetiJ?  or  more.  Ser- 
vices were  Keld  occasionally' .  LooUrs 
found  the  place  ricK ;  but  tKeir  hands 
took    amazingly    little . 

Here  were  statues ,  wrought  from 
Spanish  woods  and  decked  wiAi  gold  • 
Silver  candlesticks ,  torches ,  crosses  and 
other  objects  of  metal  were  not  lack- 
ing.   Also,  rare  paintings  and  broideries- 


& 


OMEHOW,  down    the    years, 

the  mission  held  these  things  un- 
warded ,  unlocked .  01\e  adobe  build- 
ings around  the  patio  crumbled ;  earm 
hid  the  tender  red  tiles ;  men  quarried 
materials  from  the  ruins  for  their  own 
uses .  Coyotes  howled  in  the  desolate 
patio ;    this    was    thp    final    requiem . 

But  those  remaining  of  the  San 
juanenos  whispered  :  "Oye  los  truenos  , 
coyote  ?" 

^TKe  words  held  significance;  net 
often  is  Sunder  heard  hereabouts,  and 
a  4iunderstorm  is  rare  indeed .  Per- 
hnps  —  who  knows?  —  to  the  Indian 
mnid  it  ^pified  the  voice  and  action 
o'^    Dei^? .       But    the     coyote ,     like    the 


42 

temple  loottr,  was  the  most  despicable 
of  all  things.  "Dost  hear  the  fliund- 
er,    coyote?"     The    saying    lingered. 

Within  the  mission  were  desolation 
and  graves ,  ruin  and  sadness ,  neglect 
and  emptiness .  Yet ,  from  time  to 
time ,    God    thundered    upon    the    hills . 

God  does  not  forget.  He  was 
raising    up    a    man    to    His    work . 


< 


* 


* 


[cl 


HE 


m 


AN 


f  I 


»1 


He    Heard    .    joUmn    an^em    n7iin 
Upon    the    tWalloWt'    Mittered    criee; 
nh*    bare   bro^n    hills    became  to    him 
A    fhimmer    of    tuit' symphonies ; 
A^«7art    the    ciumblini;    cloister-shade 
An    angel's    Wing  limned    lanes    of   light , 
And    from    forgotten    graves    out-stra)>ed 
Lot?    whisperings    upon    ^    night. 

Wiih    adze    and    plane    and   rugged    beam 
He    fell    to    hewing    out    his    dream. 


THE 


MAN 


fa 


MAN  came  to  San  Juan  to 
die.  Smitten  b>l  tK*  white  plague, 
Ke  was  denied  all  Kope.  Since  Ke  Had 
but  to  await  deaib ,  ^^et  wisKcd  to  re- 
main in  tne  Divine  service ,  Ke  wac 
sent    to    tke    abode    of   desolation . 

I  do  not  tKink  it  cccured  to  the 
Man ,  or  to  anyone  else ,  tKat  all  his 
life  had  been  sKapen  toward  his  com- 
ing here  to  die.  God  never  makes 
mistakes . 

OThe  Man,  burning  wifh  a  deep 
spiritualij? ,  came  here  to  die.  Oni]? 
forgotten  graves  awaited  him  ;  onljl  the 
work  of  the  Landmarks  Club  had  saved 
the    mission    from    total    destruction. 

Weeds    gre\0     'hculctr  hsgh    in    the 

45 


i 

i4 


f 


^mi 


46 

Kolj?  places.  Tourists  dtfacad  cver^ 
wall .  Wi<K  each  rain ,  mora  of  tKe 
ruins  ^anishad.  Hhe  tinttd  cHancel- 
doma  of  tha  nigh  cKurcK  was  oovered 
witfi  swallows'  mud  nests.  QKe  graves 
of   tK«    padres    were    lost. 

HHE  Man  lived  among  the  cKolos. 
Each  6aS ,  expecting  deatfi ,  he  Vis- 
ited the  ruins  and  cleared  a  space;  he 
uncovered  the  beautiful  tiles,  such  as 
remained.  At  everj)  turn  he  found 
wonderful  things:  fragments  of  oarved 
work,  bits  of  iron  lovingly  "v^rought  in 
the  mission  forge,  scraps  of  materials 
rarely'    worked.     AH    these    he    saved. 

He  dre\S  close  to  the  folk,  learned 
their  speech,  won  their  love.  Qhej? 
told  him  ancient  legends,  folk-lore,  bits 
of  mission  histor]^  no  one  else  could 
have  gleaned.  And  still  God  thund- 
ered  upon    the    hills . 

To  his  surprise  the  Man  did  not 
die.  Slowlj^,  as  he  worked  amid  the 
ruins,  strengA  returned  to  him.  <The 
myster?  of  service  nox\?  brought  him  its 
unsought   reward      -    a    -\)ision . 

Ruined,    despoileJ,  the  old  mission 


47 

T^vrtd  above  tKos*  who  had  laid  it 
\oi9.  In  itstif  it  was  ?i«ion;  onl9 
wKera  thara  it  no  ^isio.  >  the  paopla 
parisK.  ORva  Man  baKalc!  hare  a  lifa- 
work ;  bacauia  Ka  Had  this  Vision  Ka 
did  not  partsK  but  took  up  tKa  task . 
niiroiigK  wKat  doubt  and  despair 
Ka  struggled  ,  none  otKer  can  knoi9 . 
Often  bis  Vision  seemed  destroyed,  as 
difficulties  loomed  larger.  EacK  forward 
step   seemed    to    attain    ne^    troubles. 

But  God  never  makes  mistakes . 
Wi<K  everj^  scrap  of  material  found , 
tt'iAx  legend  and  stor:?  to  guide  Kim , 
the  Man  set  to  work.  OtKer  missions 
Kud  been  "restored",  slatKcted  wifl\ 
plaster,  brick  and  glass,  painted  in 
terrible  fervor.  But  to  tKis  task  God 
Kad  sent  no  restorer.  He  Kad  sent 
an    artnst . 

HO  W  tKe  Man  dwelt  amid  tK« 
ruins  and  became  tKe  Padre  bom 
in  fact  and  spirit .  He ,  too ,  Kewed 
syoemore  beams  for  rafters;  Ke,  too, 
carved  and  mortised  Kis  windcsj-fremps , 
after  tKe  fasKion  of  tKose  remaining . 
WKen    Ke    drove    a    nail,  it    was  a  nail 


i 


h\ 


48 

made    in    tKe    forge . 

Among  tKe  ruins  wer*  scraps  of 
old  frescoes.  Artists  <Ji»iting  the  place 
savJ  tKe  Padre's  S?ision .  In  tKe  rooms 
Ke  restored  tKe]?  copied  tKe  old  work, 
line  for  line,  color  for  color;  not  in 
tKe  ecstasy?  of  creation  tut  in  tKe  \o-0- 
ing    oare    of   service. 

nhs  Padre  KougKt  ne\>?  brick  and 
tile.  He  traded  nstO  for  old,  collect- 
ing from  tKe  town  and  rancKes  mucK 
tKat  was  ^)aluab!e  in  Kis  •v>ision .  All 
sucK    tKings    furtKered    Kis    labors. 

^1  HENCE  came  tKe  monej^  for 
!^B  tKis  work  ?  From  bo4a  ecclesiasti- 
cal and  private  sources ,  let  us  saS . 
from    God. 

No  Kire  could  buj?  sucK  labor  as 
tK»  Padre  gave  to  Kis  -Oision ,  for  Kis 
remuner»«ion  was  not  of  tKe  earfK . 
Before  Kim  la>^  eterni^  for  tKis  task, 
and  tKere  was  no  Kaste.  If  Ke  laid 
but  one  tile  etcK  daj) ,  and  laid  it 
well,    Ke    was    content. 

It  was  tKis  spirit  wKicK  made  tKe 
old  world's  wonders ,  and  makes  tKe 
nr»7    world    wonder.     It  is  rarely  found 


49 

in  this  countrS^ .  Once  it  was  Kcr*  . 
indeed,  but  wi^  the  dispUcemcnt  of 
thoroughness  h^  greed,  as  a  standard 
of   craftmanship,    it    -Vanished . 

This  spirit  made  the  rugs  of  Pet* 
sia,  the  Flemish  buildings,  the  hrorze* 
craft  of  China ,  the  illuminations  whidt 
Irish  monks  taught  the  schoolmen  of 
Europe.  Rugs,  buildings,  bronzes,  ill* 
uminations  —  these  are  made  no  more 
in  the  old  spirit;  the^^  are  made  but 
to  perish,  for  their  makers  have  no 
Vision.  But  at  San  Juan  Capistrane 
the    spirit    lingers . 


fi 


O  R  years  the  mission  wa#  deso* 
lata  and  abandoned ,  ^^isionless .  Its 
people  perished  and  "Sandals  held  it  at 
their  merc;^ .  Yet  the  spirit  of  the 
piKJres  abode  in  the  place  where  t\\e^ 
had  sarvad;  then  came  the  Padre.  In 
him  the  old  spirit  revived,  and  the 
ancient  "Vision.  Even?  stone  and  cBr?- 
ing  and  orumbling  fresco  cried  out  to 
him;  Adobe  and  Keystone  and  Bell 
carried   to    him   their    message. 

Under  the  spell  of  his  "Vision,  ruin 
and  destruction  evolved  into  beau^  and 


u 


service.  Nfor  did  He  serve  the  dead 
onl3>,  for  children  sat  at  his  feet  and 
learned .  His  ^as  the  Icgacp  of  human 
fragments  in  the  despised  cholo,  the 
halfbreed,  the  Mexican  and  Indian. 
Witfi  sue',  fragments  he  builded . 
In  him  the>  sa^,  not  the  alien,  but 
the  Padre  whose  soul  housed  -Oenera- 
tion  and  deep  kindliness,  and  a  vision. 
^lUeS  answered  to  the  vision  of  their 
fathers . 

The  townfolk  jeered  beoause  he 
traded  nexQ  bricks  for  old.  made  nails 
in  the  forge,  left  his  neW  doors  bare 
until  he  could  get  the  paint  used  b^ 
the  padres.  As  the  fragments,  human 
and  divine,  upgreW  beneath  his  hand, 
the   scofjiing    ceased. 

BND  toda>>  the  old  place  is  alive. 
It  is  alive  wiA  its  ancient  beau^ , 
•liv*  wi^  graves  and  ruins,  alive  -^^iA 
its  rebirth.  Its  people  are  not  perish- 
ing but  are  thriving.  Tourist  <>andals 
have  been  turned  into  pa}?ing  guests. 
Never  will  the  mission  be  restor- 
ed to  its  pristine  grandeur;  and  it  is 
better   so.     Mo  longer  are  neophytes  at 


tBM 


5« 

Kand  to  work  in  sKop  and  field,  no 
longer  do  its  cattle  roam  the  Kills ,  no 
longer  does  tKe  land  need  it  as  a  center 
of  industrj^  and  agriculture.  ^TKe  land 
needs  it  onl^p  as  the  House  of  Gcd  . 
EacK  crumbled  arcK,  each  delioate  ke^j^- 
stone ,    bears    a    spiritual    message . 


0 


A  N   Juan    does  not  lack  relics  of 

more  materal  interest  ---  Padre 
Serra's  book  of  the  dead ,  a  letter  writ 
b^^  Fra3^  Crespi  before  Ssn  Diego  was 
founded  ,  ancient  silver  and  t?essels  and 
paintings . 

QKe  Padre,  too,  Kas  great  store 
of  tales  and  legends  dra^n  from  tKe 
Hearts  of  His  people;  and  tHese  He  will 
some    da^^ ,  perHaps ,  make  into  a  book . 

He  will  do  so  •--  five,  ten,  twen^k^ 
years  Hence .  WHj>  Hurrj?  ?  WHo  serves 
God ,  not  man ,  finds  a  calm  poise  in 
life ;  to  eacH  daj^  some  task ,  but  God 
sets    tHe   pace . 

PerHaps  tHis ,  after  all ,  is  tHe 
greatest   lesson . 


FINIS 


I 


jl. 


J 


J 


Appendix    A 

Tradition   informs   us   tkat    among 
tK«   ti^pts   of   Korses   Were: 

sabino  tortoisa-akall 

tordillo  gnS 

palomino    •-         buff,   wkitt   tail 

^Tka  Padra  Kas  a  mora  complete  list. 
WKelKer  these  ara  pural^  local  names , 
I    am   unable   to   sa3^ . 


r 


Appendix    B 

"Vancouver  gave  Father  Lasuen , 
of  the  San  Juan  Capistrano  Mission, 
a  barrel  cvTtan  for  his  church." 
Smythe,  Hist,  of  San  Diego,  p.  84. 
I  can  find  no  other  mention  of  this 
instrument . 


4k 


Hcrt    end*    Hhm    Stor^ 

of     Mifion     San    Juan 

Capistrano      printed      b^ 

hand      at     the     Sign     of 

the     Crossed      Quills     in 

Sta      Barbara 


